Off the Beaten Path: Tintern

County: Monmouthshire, Wales

I’ve had two trips, recently, where I had just wanted a hint of Wales.  An appetizer, perhaps, for future travel.  With two friends in tow on my 2014 trip and one on my 2016 trip, each had a request to experience England, Scotland, and Wales… which is hard to do on a two-week vacation!  But, I thought I had found the answer when I located Tintern.

Tintern is only 37 minutes from Bristol (22.7 miles).  It borders Gloucestershire to the east and Herefordshire to the northeast which makes it an intriguing possibility for a Welsh overnighter on an already cramped trip!  So, we packed up the car and border hopped into Monmouthshire for a wee bit of Wales!

I’d entered Wales before with a short trip to Conwy and Llandudno in the north.  Here, we were in the more southerly part of the country and I was really digging the vibe of the place.  Heavily forested, the roads offered “tree tunnels” for cars to wend their way through on the lovely roads leading into town.  We briefly scraped the outer edges of Monmouth, a market town and center of the county.

As you might know, Tintern was made famous in art and poetry.  Famous artists like Gainsborough, Gilpin, and Turner painted the area.  And the poet, William Wordsworth, immortalized the abbey there in his poem “Lines written a few miles above Tintern Abbey”:

“Five years have past; five summers, with the length of five long winters! And again I hear these waters rolling from their mountain springs with a soft inland murmer. Once again do I behold these steep and lofty cliffs that on a wild secluded scene impress thoughts of more deep seclusion.”

This is truly Tintern. It’s dark and leafy with a beautiful, fast flowing river running through it.  Ducks and swans are swept along its vernal banks.  The River Wye is the second longest river in Wales. It originates from the Welsh mountains at Plynlimon and flows for 134 miles to Chepstow.  It makes for a romantic setting in itself, but then, there’s the Abbey.

Tintern Abbey stands resolute and unwilling to die.  Caught up in the dissolution of the monasteries brought about by Henry VIII, its walls still remain standing, if not intact.  This is the romantic backdrop for the small town of Tintern.

In 2016, I had just experienced a nerve-wracking trip to the Cotswolds (don’t go to any of the tourist towns – it’s a trap!).  The Cotswolds are reachable by various day trip companies from London.

If you do go to the Cotswolds, pick a working town… not a tourist town.  We were inundated by thousands of tourists from several tour companies at Bibury.  Hastily, we withdrew and ended up at Tintern.  I remembered how calm it had been on my 2014 trip, and it was no less calm this time around.  If you want to assuage jangled nerves, catch your breath, and just be one with the landscape – this is the area for you.

We booked into the local Best Western (my first trip, we’d tried a local B&B which didn’t quite suit us).  The Best Western, St. George hotel opened its doors and we had our room for the night.  It’s a bit dated, this hotel, but it’s got a lovely outdoor space where patrons of the hotel bar can stretch out with a nice cider and chat. Our room was on the first floor, and when we opened our back door, we found the perfect place to dry our clothes after hand washing them!  It was just lovely.

Tintern Abbey is .2 miles from the St. George.  It’s an easy, not to mention lovely, walk!  You’ll find shops and cafes along your route, and even a nice pub just across from the Abbey.  The Abbey gift shop is large and has a great selection of gifts very reasonably priced!  I’ve enjoyed shopping there.  It is in the gift shop that you can also purchase tickets to walk around the Abbey and soak up its ambience.

Later, take a stroll into town along the riverside and pick a nice restaurant to have a bite. If you like to walk, there are many routes you can take to enjoy a sunny day along the Wye.

After the Cotswold debacle, Tintern was my haven.  I will always love that town, and hope to explore it more on one of my next trips.  As for 2017? I am taking my sightseeing more toward the north and west of Wales.  For further adventures, watch this space!

 

Off the Beaten Path: Tintagel

County: Cornwall

Though my heart is definitely in the north of England, I did manage to carve out a few favorites from southern counties as well. Probably my MOST favorite town in the south is Tintagel. I landed there one year at the behest of a travel partner who wanted to know more about King Arthur. To that end, Tintagel is a must see.

If you’re staying in Tintagel, I highly recommend the Avalon B&B. It’s right beside the sea within easy walking distance of the remains of King Arthur’s Castle and Merlin’s cave. Ask for an ocean view – I promise you’ll wish you had if you don’t! Peter and Julie are great hosts, and you must do yourself a favor by trying the porridge brulee.

Heading southward from the B&B, you’ll be met with numerous shops and eateries. Get a real Cornish pasty or perhaps a pub lunch at the King Arthur’s Arms! The distance to the castle ticket booth is about half a mile or so. You’ll have to be at least minimally fit to climb the steps up to the top of the hill that contains the castle remains. To be honest, I was more enamored of the views than the castle leftovers. You can see for miles out into the blue. Island rocks jut out reminiscent of the old Yes album covers.

Just below you, underneath the hill is a tidal cave known as Merlin’s cave. You can peruse it at low tide, but otherwise, it remains underwater. Just being on the beach at the base of the hill is an enormous energy high. You can almost feel the history lifting you up and permeating the air. On the way back to the town, you can stop by the castle gift shop and there’s a small café nearby also. For those not up for a walk, there’s typically a manned golf cart that will haul you for a fee.

Back into Tintagel, you can spend your day shopping, catching up on your laundry, or checking out the visitor’s centre (it’s a nice one)! There is a King Arthur’s Great Halls which is a hall, gift shop, and movie theater. I’ve only been in the gift shop, but I hear the movie and hall tour is well worth the price! Of course, if you’ve read my other blog posts, you’ll know that one of my favorite nearby spots is St. Nectan’s Glen. It’s close enough that you can walk there if you’re fairly fit. If not, you can drive to a little car park nearby and walk about a mile through the most awesome fairy forest I’ve ever seen. At the end of the trail is a Wiccan café where you can get a bite before purchasing a ticket to the kieve (waterfall).

I’ve been to Stonehenge and to Avebury. They have their positive points and the energy (at least in Avebury) is still pretty amazing. Nothing compares to St. Nectan’s Glen, though. Not Glastonbury Tor or the Chalice Well or even the holy Hawthorn tree on Wearyall Hill. Just saying that you really shouldn’t miss it. Plan to stay long enough to do some meditation and prayer. It’s a good place for it.

In 2014, we had some spare time, so we decided to see the Witch Museum in Boscastle (just the other side of St. Nectan’s Glen). Honestly? One of the most gorgeous little towns in Cornwall that I’ve seen. The museum was extensive, but the visitor’s center was HUGE. Besides having cute little shops and cafes. I’d say Boscastle could be a holiday destination as well as Tintagel.

Very close to Tintagel (if you are traveling by car) is Port Isaac. If you’re a Doc Martin fan, you’ll know that Port Isaac is the real life “Portwenn” in the tv series. I found it fascinating, beautiful, and a little tough to get around in. The town is perched on the side of a hill, so to get anywhere, you’re either traveling uphill or downhill. Most of the time the grade is very steep! But, I got to see Doc Martin’s house and even went in Mrs. Tishel’s chemist shop. :)

Tintagel is not easy to reach without a car. Your best bet (without a car of your own) is to get the train to Bodmin Parkway Rail Station and either take the bus or get a taxi from there. Here is some helpful information.

I wish you all the best in your travel adventures to Cornwall. There is SO much to see and do! Get there during the week to miss the weekend tourists. Take a shopping bag, a walking stick, and an adventurous spirit. Cornwall will fill you up with its mystery, amazing landscapes, and historical sites!

Trip 2017!

This year’s trip is already in the works. I’m changing things up quite a bit so that I’ll have even more information for my lovely classes in the Fall. This post is just a heads up that I’ve not ever traveled this way in combination before. It’s going to be a new experience and I hope to share lots of new tips and tricks and places to go with my upcoming classes.

So, here is the outlined plan:

 

Day 1-2

Drive to Houston and leave on a direct flight to London. My friend, Clare, is picking me up at the airport and taking me to her place. (Now on day two of the trip.)

Day 3

I’ve no plans for the day so I was thinking I might get out and explore Windsor castle if I’m not too jet lagged. We have planned a lovely evening watching a musical on the West End called Beautiful. It’s about the life of Carol King.

Day 4

Sandra has kindly offered to drive me northward to catch a train to Wales. Thanks, again, to my two friends who always seem to take care of me when I’m over there. There is a possibility that I may have lunch with a friend in Telford (if possible), but it will all depend on the train times and such. The end of Day 4, I’m checking into Mary’s Court B&B in Betws y Coed. This mountain town is supposed to be amazingly pretty and is close to other things I want to do!

 

Day 5

Take the Sherpa bus to Portmeirion. This town has been on my bucket list for ages! It’s a Mediterranean village plopped along the west coast of Wales. It’s also the setting for the 1960s TV show, the Prisoner. I hope to tick that box this year!

Note: On days 5 & 6, I’ve had the offer by a friend in the area to act as tour guide, so if we firm that up, I may not need the Sherpa bus! Thanks, Mark Clarke! I’m also looking forward to seeing his dog, Meffie, who looks a LOT like Maddie!

Day 6

Take the Sherpa bus to Mount Snowdon and take the train to the top! Woohoo! If I have any time left over, I’d like to see one of the local castles like Caenarfon, perhaps.

Day 7

Take the train northward to Ulverston where I’m staying with the lovely and effervescent Dawn Sharples for a few days. We’ll hopefully have time for a bite at the pub. I’m assuming she’s working on both weekdays I’m there, so spending Day 8 with Karin.

Day 8

Going with my friend Karin to shop for bargains! I love to shop thrift stores and garage sales, so Karin says she thinks we can find a boot sale or two! Wouldn’t that be fun!?!

 

Day 9

I’m hoping to get together with friends from the past to do a brief low-level hike somewhere. I wouldn’t mind seeing the Hoad, Dawn! LOL… or anywhere else folks want to meet. First round at the pub is on me afterwards!

 

Day 10

This is a Sunday, and I’m hopping the train for Lanark, Scotland to see my friend Frances and her pretty little spaniel, Pippa. Oh, and don’t forget Caramel the guinea pig.

Day 11

I’ve never been to Lanark, and am looking forward to catching up with Frances and sightseeing. She’s talked about taking me to New Lanark which is a world heritage center and visitor attraction! I’ve heard about this on my favorite series, Escape to the Country, and it seems like it will be so much fun!

 

Day 12

I wish I could stay in Scotland longer, but there’s so much to fit in in so little time! Sadly, having to say goodbye to Frances and friends, and heading southward to Rotherham, Yorkshire to meet up with my dear friends Chris and Linda. I love all my friends, but Linda has the added distinction of also being a Texan and Tennessean! We’re linked very distantly as relatives.

 

Day 13

This is a day that’s open to traveling anywhere Chris and Linda like. I wouldn’t mind seeing new or old places in Yorkshire – I’d love to take them through Thirsk and Kilburn, but perhaps they have something else in mind that would be another adventure.

 

Day 14

Tearfully leaving my friends and heading southward to link up with yet another old friend of mine (she’s not old, but the friendship is) Kim. I’m guessing that her boyfriend (an even older friend of mine) will be there with us as well. I asked Kim if we could hit some thrift stores and boot sales. I also want to know more about the land she lives in as I know virtually nothing about England’s east coast.

 

Day 15

Kim mentioned boot sales and Boudicca (two things near my heart), so I’m guessing we’ll be sightseeing and doing these things together for the next day or two.

Day 16

See day 15!

 

Day 17

Leaving Norfolk for London. Staying in a new hotel called the Park International which is very centrally located at Gloucester Rd. I will be having afternoon tea with Clare at the Victoria and Albert museum at 4 pm, so I better get a move on!

Day 18

Sightseeing day. I’m not sure if I’ll be able to tour Parliament during this period, but I’ll definitely try. I’d also like to visit the Queen’s Gallery and gift shop (my favorite gift shop in England). It’s on the back side of Buckingham Palace and offers higher quality souvenirs and the prices aren’t THAT awful (though some things can take your breath away).

I’m packing that night because I leave the motherland the following day.

 

Day 19

Depart London Heathrow at 1:40 pm and arrive Houston at 6 pm. I’ll stay the night with mom before heading home.

 

Day 20 – the Finale

Pick up my long lost children from the petsitter and crash.

Summary

This trip is a new adventure for me in many ways. I've never traveled this long or far by mass transit. Never tried staying with friends for most of my journey. Venturing into London's West End isn't new, but seeing the musical, Beautiful will be wonderful! I've never been to Betws-y-Coed, Snowdon, Portmeirion, or Snowdonia National Forest. I'm potentially meeting my new friend, Carrie Anne if we can make the connections work. I've never been to a boot sale, and I'm sure my Lake District hike will be an adventure as well! Going to New Lanark with Frances and exploring Yorkshire with Linda and Chris is new as is the exploration of Norfolk with Kim and Greg. I've never been to Windsor or taken a tour of the Houses of Parliament - not to mention tea at the Victoria and Albert!

In planning this, the best part, for me, is thinking of the friends I'll get to see and actually having more than a few minutes to catch up with each of them.  Be forewarned, my dears... I'm coming laden with silly Texas gifts again!  Already started making my stash. :)

So,  you see, this is going to, hopefully, be a massive culture shock for me. Am I ready for it?  In the words of that great musician, Marvin Gaye... "Let's Get it On!"

Driving in the UK

Driving down a backroad in Cornwall, I’m white knuckling it again.  These old pony paths are now paved and supporting motor vehicle traffic.  And, to top it off, folks here like to line the roads with hedgerows about 10 feet tall.  There’s no shoulder.  My heart is beating quickly and I’m praying, “Please don’t let anyone come from the opposite direction!”  There is no room to move over or pull off.  Just as I utter the prayer, a large Range Rover comes into view.  Oh. My. God.  The driver and I exchange glances, and he notes the terror in my eyes.  He begins to back up to a point where there’s a place to pull over.  I pass by mouthing “thank you thank you thank you!”  He laughs.

I am renting a car from a global rental agency in a small market town.  I notice the car isn’t shifting properly.  A mile from the lot, a horrible smell fills the car.  I turn back with only two miles on the odometer since I left… and they charge me $1800 (over and above the actual rental fee). A legal battle ensured (I won), but it was long and painful (and costly).

I am in the Lake District, and I ask for the easy way to a small town where friends are located.  I’m pointed to a larger “A” road, but my GPS takes me to a small pathway hanging in midair called “the Struggle”.  I live to drive another day, but only just.

There are tons of horror stories about driving in another country – these are just a few of mine.  But, having said that, I’ve been on the road a LOT during my travels and the incidents have been very rare.  There are reasons to self-drive, but I have to be convinced!  I recommend train travel over car rental any day except for the problem of actually *getting* to places you want to see.  For years, Portmeirion, Wales has been on my list.  Totally not on the major rail line.  Mount Snowdon has also been on the list, but it’s only by a harrowing combination of bus and rail travel that I could make it there on mass transit lines.  The cost and travel time is cut by ¾ in driving myself.  So, there are times I would recommend renting a car.  I’m considering it this year.

If you were in my class, I would probably recommend taking mass transit for your first few trips over.  You’re probably going to want to see more tourist sites that would be rail-linked.  In fact, I’d recommend a group tour for your first trip (to get the lay of the land) followed by a self-planned tour in subsequent trips.  At some point, however, you may want to go beyond the tourist sights to see things others don’t have a chance to.

What should you know before you rent a car in the UK?

• Know your insurance before you go over.  What’s covered and what isn’t? What does your credit card cover?  You may not need that Collision Damage Waiver that adds quite a bit to your costs.
• Know if you want to add a second driver to your contract.  This adds something around $10-$20 a day for the rental.
• When renting a vehicle make sure you understand how to operate it before leaving the lot.  An agent should give you a briefing before you take off.
• Check the government website as to whether you need an international driver’s license.  Currently, you don’t, but that could always change. (http://www.gov.uk)
• Check your car THOROUGHLY before driving off the lot.  I was experiencing trouble shifting on one car which led to the $1800 charge.  If you have *any* issue at all, stop the car immediately and call the agency.
• Know the rules of the road.  There are some pretty complex traffic circles and signs that you may not be aware of.  To familiarize yourself with British road safety, go to http://www.gov.uk and look up The Highway Code, road safety and vehicle rules.
• Most cars in the UK are standard shift, though you can get automatic for added cost.  One rental agent told me an American showed up on his lot thinking the car was automatic.  He gave her a 30-minute class in standard shift and sent her on her way! 
• Don’t lose your keys!  On one trip, I lost my keys and it was going to cost about $750 for a replacement, plus the cost of a courier to get me a replacement from London.  I lucked out in that I found the key two days later and they waived the courier fee.  I was very lucky!
• Follow parking rules.  Some city centres still use parking discs that allow you to park for free for a designated amount of time by setting your arrival time on the disc.  You will need to have or obtain a free parking disc to park in these zones which are usually available from council offices, tourist information centres and many businesses.  Time limits vary, so check the signs adjacent to your vehicle.  Display the disc on your dashboard.
  
If an area is not marked as paid parking, disc parking, or emergency parking you are probably ok to park there.  As with anything, do your research before you go over!

• Make sure you have some sort of GPS with you.  Even though I had two GPS’s with me and they could never agree on anything!  It’s still better than being irretrievably lost.
• Take a hardcopy Atlas with you in case the GPS is just going too wonky or you lose satellite connection.
• Make sure there is parking at your lodging.  Parking is not guaranteed anywhere in the UK! 
• Note that blue signs marked with a large “P” indicate parking lots in cities and towns.
• On divided highways (called dual carriageways), it is the law for slower cars to stay on the left, faster cars in the middle, and still faster on the right. 
• Closed Circuit TV is used on most major roads in the UK. 
• Restrooms and gas stations are not as plentiful as they are in the states.  However, the British have something called “Services” which is pretty amazing.  When you see a sign indicating “Services”, it will take you to a large gathering of stores, gas stations, and even casino games (depending on the size and location of the Services).  I wish we had Services in the U.S.!
• Speaking of lack of restrooms, if you have to go or think you will, and you see a Services sign – STOP then and there!  You may not get another chance for a long stretch of road.  This is also a good time to note your gas tank levels.

In general, driving in the UK comes naturally after about an hour or so in the driver’s seat.  Relax. Being uptight and worried doesn’t make you a better driver.  Breathe.  If you feel you’re getting overwhelmed, pull over and rest a bit.  Services are your friend as is preparedness.  Know the rules. Head off rental car issues when possible.  Cover yourself!  Forewarned is forearmed.

Did You Know?

Queen Anne Boleyn was reported to have had six fingers?  This was refuted, but it’s quite possible she did have two nails on her right little finger.

Churchill and Hitler were both artists.

Margaret Thatcher, once a chemist, assisted in the creation of soft serve ice cream.

It is normally thought that Henry VIII finished his marriages as follows: Divorced, beheaded, survived.  It is commonly believed that Catherine Parr (his last wife) was the only queen to survive him.  However, both Anne of Cleves and Catherine of Aragon survived his royal malfeasance.  Catherine of Aragon was never divorced by the Catholic church nor was the marriage annulled by them.  King Henry was excommunicated from the church and pushed an annulment through after the reformation.  He ordered that Catherine should have the title of Dowager Duchess of Wales.

The queen owns the sturgeons, whales, and dolphins in the waters around the UK.

George II died on the toilet and may have shared the same fate as Edmund II who was rumored to have been stabbed to death by a Viking hiding in his privy.

The queen is the only person in Britain who legally drove without a license or number plate on her car.

Owain Glyndwr was the last native-born man to hold the title of Prince of Wales.

Queen Victoria used chloroform as an anesthetic during childbirth.

Shakespeare’s father made gloves for a living.

During Elizabeth I’s time, makeup containing lead was used as an anti-aging cosmetic.

In 1952, the Great Smog encompassed London and killed anywhere from 4,000 to 12,000 people.  The “Big Smoke” is still used in reference to London.

Wales has more castles than any other country in Europe!  With over 600 castles, you might think the Welsh loved building them, but in truth, many were built by the English to keep the Welsh under control.

Queen Elizabeth I was reputed to be a man! (Of course, a woman couldn’t have been such a strong monarch!)

A folly (virtually unknown in the U.S.) is an expensive ornamental structure with no practical purpose.

Queen Victoria was the first monarch whose likeness was pressed on a postage stamp.

Edward VIII, the king who abdicated his throne for an American divorcee, was a Nazi sympathizer.  Upon the Nazis winning the war, he would possibly have been replaced on the British throne as its monarch.  He also encouraged an infamous picture in 1933 of Princess Elizabeth and her family performing a Nazi salute!

Queen Boudica of the Iceni is rumored to be buried under platform 9 at Kings Cross Station.

Shakespeare was a great propagandist for the Tudors.  His Richard III had little bearing on the real Richard III who was by all reports a handsome and well-liked ruler.  There is a lot of controversy over Richard’s involvement with the Princes in the Tower, but he certainly wasn’t freakish or sporting a withered arm.  He was, however, judged to have had severe scoliosis rather than a hunched back.  All this propaganda ensured that the public viewed the Tudors as rightful heirs to the throne and the northern kings as abhorrent.

Do you have any trivia to add?  Let us know in the Comments section!

Intelligent Packing: What Questions Should You Be Asking?

You're packing for an overseas trip, and you want make sure you only take the essentials.  This list of questions should help you hone your packing skills and cull your master packing list.  Please feel free to add some of  your favorite tips and tricks to the list!

1	Is this a need or a want?
2	Have you packed color coordinated clothing?
3	Have you packed clothing you’ll wear?
4	Have you packed clothing that is weather appropriate? Check the web for historical weather information for your destination.
5	Have you packed multi-purpose clothing?
6	Have you packed comfortable shoes suitable for walking?  High heels are not always appropriate.  Ultimately, two pairs of shoes should get you by: one for daily walking and another pair for going out in the evenings.  If you can get by with one pair, kudos!
7	Is this on your packing list? If not, should it be there?
8	Is it really necessary?  If you lose medications – that could be a hassle.  If you're missing a toothbrush, those are easily replaced.
9	Can you get it at your destination?
10	Can you rent it at your destination?  Instead of packing hiking boots, poles, tents, etc.  Look for a place at your destination that rents them.
11	Is your travel partner already packing this? If you’re traveling with others, do each of  you need one? (Think of things such as maps, hair dryers, or toothpaste.)
12	Do you  really need this gadget?  If you’ve got your smart phone, do you really need a camera or video recorder?  And honestly, it’s your vacation.  Can’t you leave the laptop at home? It may mean less stress and more time happily enjoying the sites and sounds of your vacation.
13	Does every item have a purpose (and hopefully more than one)?
14	Have you packed too many medications?  You’re not going to be gone that long… do you really need all those supplements?  Most of the time you can get things like Ibuprofen, Benedryl, antacids, etc. at  your destination. For a fee, many drug stores will pack a week's pills with prescription number for travel in blister packs. Make sure you have your pills in the original container or that you have your doctor's prescription on hand.  TSA doesn't require it, but you could have trouble in foreign countries whose laws are different than ours.
15	Have you packed too many beauty supplies?  You can usually get hairspray, makeup items, and such at your destination.  I typically take the minimum: foundation, brow pencil, face powder, mascara, and lipstick.
16	Have you limited liquids.  You are allowed 3.4 oz bottles of liquids in a one quart bag per person. Remember that you can split toothpaste or purchase toiletries at your destination.
17	Have you completed a trial pack and eliminated all the items that don’t work?
18	Have you tagged your luggage inside and out?  You may also want to take pictures of your luggage and the contents in case your suitcase is lost or misplaced.
19	Have you left space for holiday purchases? Tips:  Pack a plastic shoebox for breakable items.  Roll up a daypack or Rick Steves convertible carry-on.  When you get to your destination this extra bag can be used for souvenirs or gifts.
20	Have you updated a master packing list to include all the items you're taking?

Packing Made Easy!

Tip #1: Save on your baggage weight by putting heavy things in your pockets rather than in the carry-on.  You can transfer them to your luggage at your convenience.

Tip #2: After your trip, edit your packing list to reflect what worked and what didn't.

Safe and happy travels!

Off the Beaten Path: Kilburn

County: North Yorkshire

I thought I might start highlighting some of the towns I recommend when I’m telling folks about travel in England.  You may already know that I lived in N. Yorkshire ages ago, so that’s why I feel such an affinity with the county.  It’s also just a beautiful place to visit!

If you google Kilburn, make sure you look for the one in North Yorkshire.  England may be the size of Mississippi, but they may have several villages with the same name in different counties! There is a story I could tell here… should I, Rob Kane?  ;)

Several friends had met up in Thackthwaite to start a hike up Low Fell.  But, where was Rob? He said he was coming.  Our cell phones were iffy at best on reception.  But, when we finally got hold of him, he was actually in Thackthwaite.  North Yorkshire (not Cumbria)!  He drove like fury for an hour to get to OUR Thackthwaite for the hike.  He will never forget (because we always remind him)!

Anyway, the hike was a success, but back to Kilburn.

When I lived in Harrogate, North Yorkshire in the 80s, my first trip to Kilburn was to pick up a puppy.  I remember thinking it was a nice little town, but I didn’t know any more about it than that.  I’m not sure when I made my first trip simply to visit Kilburn.  Perhaps it was due to my history instructor, Sid Brown.  Or maybe one of my friends on a day off thought we could do some shopping at the Mouseman shop.  But, from the first time I spent more than a few minutes there, I fell in love with the place. 

Kilburn lies just east of Thirsk (which I’ll feature in another article soon).  It’s a tiny town.  No market to speak of.  It does have a lovely pub (the Forresters Arms) and a small café inside the Mouseman Vistor Centre.  Make sure you plan your meals based on the hours of the pub and café as there are times during the day that they might be closed. 

The first thing you’ll notice as you drive toward the town is a white chalk horse figure cut into the face of a hill. Unlike  the prehistoric horse at Uffington, the Kilburn horse was carved in 1857 with some argument as to who originated it.  It was either a school teacher named John Hodgson or Thomas Taylor, a Kilburn native.  At any rate, the site has been maintained since that time by  volunteers who refresh the figure by applying white chalk chips from the Yorkshire Wolds.  Continued maintenance is funded by public support and the efforts of the Kilburn White Horse Association.

Visitors can take the relatively easy path to the top of the White Horse cliff for a panoramic view of the countryside.  There is a parking lot at the base of the hill for easy access.

Also nearby is the gateway to the North Yorkshire Moors National Park.  Visitors can find information at the Sutton Bank National Park Centre (free entry)  which is located about 26 minutes east of Thirsk.  Spend a day of hiking or biking the trails with fantastic local views.  You can rent bikes from Sutton Bank Bikes who also offer classes.  

The North Yorkshire Moors National Park covers 554 square miles of North East Yorkshire.  It includes a range of hills (including the scenic Cleveland Hills).  With large swaths of heather-laden fields, the panorama may sometimes appear purple!  It’s well-worth a visit for the outdoor-minded.

This brings me to the highlight of Kilburn, Robert Thompson’s Craftsmen shop.  Now, I’m someone who can appreciate a well-turned wooden bowl or carved bookends, but this takes history and craft to an altogether different level.  Robert Thompson (1876-1955) was a furniture maker reknowned for carving small mice into his pieces.  Supposedly, the idea for the mouse came after a conversation about “being as poor as a church mouse”.  It caught on, and to this day, you can see evidence of his work in local churches and pubs. 

The workshop is still run by Robert Thompson’s descendents, and you can watch the artists at work carving pieces that will eventually go on sale in the shop and Visitor Centre (where you can also get a bite to eat).  Note that you must have a pretty fat wallet to purchase most of the items on sale, however, those items are also works of art that seem to appreciate over time.  I currently have a bowl, a set of book ends, and a pin dish from Robert Thompson.  I wish I still had the three-legged stool I purchased back in the 80s!

I hope you avail yourself of a trip to Kilburn if you happen to be in North Yorkshire. It’s one of those “off the beaten path” kind of places that bring a secret smile to my face whenever I think of visiting there!