Walking the Walk

I just got an invitation from my friend, Dawn Sharples, to join her and some of my other Facebook UK Hiking friends on a real life “Last Wainwright.”  I wish I had scheduled my trip for another time so I could make it.

For those that don’t know what a Wainwright is, there are a collection of 214 hikes that are called “Wainwrights” after Alfred Wainwright who was a famous British Fell (mountain) walker in the UK.  He may be best known for a series he wrote from 1955 to 1966 called “A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells.”  If you’re serious about hiking in the UK, this is a must purchase. 

In all, Alfred Wainwright (or A.W.) wrote over 40 books on hiking in his time. 

I’ve only done one Wainwright – Latrigg (which I discuss in my blog here).  It was one of the most beautiful walks I’ve ever taken and definitely a lot of bang for the buck! 

It’s hard for me to fathom having hiked all 214 Wainwrights!  I’m very happy for my friend, Dawn.  If you are interested in learning more about the Wainwrights, contact the Wainwright Society here. 

Recently, I was sitting next to a woman from Manchester (at our local Burns Supper), and she said her husband was an avid walker and often talked of taking the Coast to Coast walk.  Alfred Wainwright is credited with creating this famous hike!  The trip is nearly 200 miles in length and runs from St Bees in Cumbria to Robin Hood’s Bay in Yorkshire.

Coast to Coast Walk

Now THAT would be an accomplishment!

Another interesting northern route is the Cumbria Way (a 75 mile trip) that runs from Ulverston to Carlisle on a fairly low-level elevation.  This hike was created by a local Rambler’s Association in the 1970s.

Cumbria Way

The last thing I’ll say on walking in the UK (and in the North in particular) is that I am constantly (and happily) amazed by Britain’s “rights of way” public footpath system. It encourages walks no matter where you are in the country and can take you to the most incredible and historic places.

Public footpaths have the right of way through private property.  Walkers must show respect to the owner’s land, and take care not to harm plants, wildlife, or stock. 

For those interested in walking with groups who know the area well, I would highly recommend contacting the rambler group nearest the area where you want to hike.  You can do a search at the Ramblers Association web site to locate the group or hike of your choice.

Adventure! It's not just for the adventurous...

Today is January 1, 2013.  I often wondered if the planet would make it this far.  It seems to keep limping along despite the policy makers and war mongers.

So, what did you do to celebrate this cataclysmic event - the coming of 2013?  I decided to stay home with my dogs.  It's strange that when you get older, you start seeing things a little more clearly.  You see the importance of the people around you (I include my dogs in that category).  They are dears who put up with me in very trying situations.  They also eat cat poop, but that's a story for another time.

What do I mean about being adventurous?  I mean that, struggle as I might with wanting to stay home and remain comfortable... I continue to hurl myself out into the void.  I push myself into adventures.  I set sail with a wing and a prayer.  I just go.

Now, most of you would think that travel isn't a big deal for someone like me.  I go every year, after all!  I travel (mostly) alone and ride the ride for all it's worth.  But... it's not easy.  The older you get, the more attached you become to home.  Leaving becomes continually harder and harder.  Putting my beloved pets in the care of my friends at Covered Wagon Kennels and heading to parts unknown for 2.5 weeks will be a test in my travel fortitude.

Sometime, maybe this year, I will call it quits.  But, until that time, I eagerly look forward to things I only dream about until the day I leave.  

What do travelers dream about?  For me, it's freedom from the day-to-day.  It's knowing that I will come out of this trip having learned something I never planned on learning.  I will have seen things that I didn't know I was going to see and I will meet people - wonderful people - who may become my lifelong friends.

Several years ago, I met the McMahons at one of my favorite London B&B's (Melrose House).  I still get cards from them on major holidays and remember the spunky Irish couple very well and with great love.  

My trip a couple of years back included meeting a distant relative and her husband.  We still write and keep in touch.  What a wonderful couple who took me all over the Cotswolds and on to Oxford.  People I barely knew!  And, of course, I can't go without mentioning Sandra and Neil Penney, Kim Humphries, and Greg Nickson - dear friends who I've known for years and only get to see on these England vacations.  

So, I dream about catching up with dear friends and meeting new ones.  

And the last part of the dream is to share what I've learned with others.  I may not be the most knowledgeable traveler or the best historian, but I can share the love of England and the things I *have* learned.  It brings the trip full circle.

2013... will it be a  year of triumph or trial?  What will the following months bring?  With any luck, they will bear wonderful fruit to someone who would otherwise be sitting at home on a comfy couch watching Turner Classic Movies with her dogs.  Let's Adventure... let's take a step off the cliff and see if we fly!

I'm ready. Are you?

The Latest Informal Class - England, the North Country

I'm catching up on my blogging this morning.  It's such a lovely, quiet day!

Maybe you think that with all this traveling to the Ozarks, I'd forgotten about England.  LOL Oh ye of little faith!

No, I'm diligently gearing things up for my trip in May.  I have the structure around what I want to do, but not too many details.  I'm doing my best to keep things as open as possible to allowing me to spontaneously visit places, hike, visit friends, or whatever!

But, that doesn't mean I don't *think* about the UK.  A lot.  Yes, the grass may always be greener, but when you live in a place where one-legged men stand in front of the convenience store dropping their trousers or sirens wail every fifteen minutes... you honestly need something to daydream about.

My mom thinks I can find prettier sights here in the US and doesn't know why I want to travel so far to see what I see and do what I do.  All I can respond is that ... I have the bug.

And, one of my greatest joys is to share that bug with others!  I have lived and traveled in the UK a lot over the years.  Thanks to my friend Sharon Williams , I finally overcame my fear and pushed myself to sign on with University of Texas Informal Classes.  October 27th was my third class on the North of England.

Mom came along (thanks for schlepping some of the course material, mom!) and we spent a good three hours talking with the few folks who showed up on a Saturday morning for the course.

My classes are a mixture of history, cultural anomalies, travel destinations and tips, logistics, and a breathtaking look at the North of England through David Dimbeby's "A Picture of Britain" BBC tv series as well as a personal compilation video from some of my trips.

The best part of the class, to me, is to hear what the attendees have to say.  The questions they ask, or the tips they give me that I may not have thought of before!

I mentioned to this class that no one knows all there is to know about Austin.  How much less can I know about Great Britain?  What I *can* tell you is that I lived there, I travel there as frequently as possible, and that I will research and respond to any questions they might have.

There was a person in one class who wanted to know how big the Lake District National Park was!  I didn't have that on the tip of my tongue. I now know it's 900 square miles and the largest national park in England and Wales.  See?

Another student told me that the Venn diagram I was using wasn't correct and that India was not a commonwealth nation.  Someone in the class pointed out that India *was* in the Commonwealth of Nations.  Just not the Commonwealth Realm.

So, yes, I learn as I go.  And maybe someday, I'll know *everything* there is to know about 1 square foot of England... but that, my friends, will take me a lifetime!

To the Ozarks... and Beyond

I just returned from a whirlwind vacation to Eureka Springs, Arkansas.  And what a lovely visit it was!  I thought I’d share it here so you can get an idea of what’s available to you if you take the (relatively) short sprint up to Arkansas’ Northwest corner.

Friday, October 12 – My birthday!

I got up fairly early (even for me!) and was on the road by 5:30 A.M.  The plan was to drop the pups off at their kennel and then hit the open road.  Covered Wagon Kennels is located in Hutto, TX.  I’ve been recommending them for years and they’re, really, the only folks I trust with my dogs.  The kennels are large and are indoor/outdoor, and the Repass’ are some of the best folks I ever met!

Anyway, with doggies dropped off, I headed north on I-35.

I’ve only been this route once before and that was about four years ago, so I was seeing things again for the first time!

I stopped at the Czech stop in West, Texas to pick up world-famous kolaches for Crystal (who has never heard of kolaches!).

The biggest thrill was arriving at the Oklahoma border and being overwhelmed with everything Native American.  Though… it looks like the Native Americans have a pretty healthy gambling habit!

The rest of the drive through the state was pretty uneventful (read that as boring).  No interesting scenery to speak of.  No cool stuff visible from the road (other than the huge lake at Eufaula). 

Crossing into Arkansas was not much better.  The drive on 40E to Fort Smith is pretty much a snoozer.  It’s when you arrive at I540 and begin heading north of Fort Smith that you begin to realize what a beautiful state this really is.

The road is magnificent – especially the closer you get to Fayetteville and Bentonville.  Bentonville, as you may know, is the headquarters of Wal-Mart.  But, to me, that’s not the high point of the area.  It’s the rolling hills, the beautiful foliage… and the fresh produce stands!

At Rogers (just outside Bentonville), you take a right at Highway 62 and on to Eureka Springs!  I was very lucky to have some good friends who live just outside of town and spent my weekend in a lovely guest house that overlooks the White River.

I arrived around 4:30 pm and was greeted by my friends Doc and Crystal and their sweet puppies, Foxy and Wolfie.  

After a lovely meal that couldn’t be beat… as well as a homemade German Chocolate birthday cake a’ la Crystal…I hit the bed and fell into a coma.

Saturday, October 13

Today was Diane’s birthday, so I called her and sang the birthday song.  Yes, with flourishes and many sour notes – but my heart was in it. J

Crystal had made homemade pumpkin pancakes and fresh fruit for breakfast (which was yummy beyond belief).  We then headed out for a local scenic spot known as the Blue Spring Heritage Center.  The good news was that the spring was still there.  The bad news was that all the lovely garden flowers had mostly gone over (it was the end of the season).  They also had a problem with the water feeding the spring, and were in the process of digging up much of the area.  It was muddy (that’s the gist of it).

But, the highlight was the beautiful leaf show and the gift shop.  Avoid the money grubbing coke machine at all costs!

Let’s go home for lunch! Oh yes… J  Crystal always cooks fresh and good.  We had some fresh tomato and cheese sandwiches with fresh fruit. 

And then… let the shopping begin! 

Downtown Eureka Springs is very quaint.  The town is built on some steep hills.  Old buildings dot the streets and the Amphitheater marks the center of town where musicians, card readers, and artists gather to play, sell, and create some of the magic that IS Eureka Springs. 

We shopped at all the stores.  Jewelry stores, clothing stores, candy stores… you name it, we were there!  Eureka Springs is known for its local artists.  I must say, I rarely spend money on jewelry, but I got two very beautiful unique sets of earrings that were only about $30 apiece!

There were sock stores and quilt stores… and restaurants all over the place!

I was smitten by the onslaught of creativity and genius and changing leaves.  And a little bit by the insidious idea that somewhere, there were autistic twins playing banjo and laying in wait.

After our long day in town, we returned home to rest up for dinner.  I was taking us out to a place called Local Flavor which had a nice array of fresh foods and a table located (after a brief talk with the hostess) in a nice corner at one side of the establishment.

Food and service were good, and I was very happy to have come so far to see old friends and enjoy new surroundings.

October 14, Sunday

Woke up early, but Doc and Crystal were nowhere to be seen.  Foxy was howling in the garage, so I rapped on the front door and got everyone stirring.  Poor Foxy was just ready to get fed and roam! 

I made some eggs and toast (my regular breakfast) before heading to Pea Ridge Military History museum.  Doc and Crystal weren’t very keen on going, so I popped into the car and headed on my way.

Pea Ridge was one of the first battles of the civil war.  It seems each side had a vested interest in wanting to take Missouri for their side. This was the decisive battle.  The south outnumbered the north by quite a bit, and should have won.  But, they had a brash young leader who (and I can’t believe ANY commander would do this)… sent his men behind company lines with no supplies and no backup ammo.

You can guess the rest.

At various points, the different sides took over the Elk Horn tavern (the only building in the area) to use as a base and makeshift medical hospital.  

There was also a little memorial area with three statues.  It seemed pretty southern-oriented in its memorialization, but I found the statues very interesting.

The museum itself was very well done.  Bits and bobs from the war.  A wonderful 30-minute movie introduction.  Nice gift shop.  But, what I really enjoyed most was the driving tour.  The tour takes you along part of the Cherokee Trail of Tears, through important battle sites, and through some of the most beautiful scenery I’d seen to date.

I was sorry Doc and Crystal hadn’t come, but glad I got to experience this awesome site and highly recommend it to area visitors.

Returning home, we had some lunch before Crystal and I made it into town once again. 

I had decided I wanted to get my cards read by the person with a table at the town’s amphitheater.  Now, there are some readers who are very good and insightful.  I know one in Austin.  A good reader is more of a good counselor than anything else… someone intuitive and someone who (many times) will give you more of a straight answer than a professional counselor.  But then, there are the others.  This was one of those…

His name was Robert and he wreaked of alcohol.  I had to ask him to put out the cigarette he was smoking before we started (I had TONS of misgivings at this point).  Five minutes into the reading, I just wanted to leave.  He boasted about being a “pagan priest”… and then began using a book to help him read the cards.  He rambled as if I had the entire day to spend with him, and I finally had to cut him off and tell him I had to go.  He got very upset with me… but that’s ok.  He got 15 dollars and I learned not to get my cards read in Eureka Springs!

Eureka Springs, like Austin, is full of characters and charm.

Crystal and I shopped at several great stores and enjoyed another lovely afternoon of doing nothing in particular. J  I got a Lilliputian sized "pot belly" Henry VIII at one store (to go with the one I had of Elizabeth I).

 Picked up some fudge for my co-workers (who are extremely chocolate obsessed) from "The Two Dumb Dames" fudge store, and then we made our way back home to dinner and one last slice of German Chocolate birthday cake!

I told Luis and Crystal I’d be leaving very early the next morning, so we said our goodbyes and went to bed.

October 15, Monday

5:30 AM, I got up and swept through the house – packing, cleaning and picking up, loading the car… I had a long day’s drive, and I wanted plenty of lead time.

I picked up an egg biscuit from McDonald’s in Rogers (since I couldn’t find the taco place Crystal and Doc had mentioned), and onward I went.  Unfortunately for me, I passed through the most scenic areas before sunrise.  I had hoped to get some fabulous pictures like I’d done the past trip I’d made there.  But, so it goes.  I pushed onward toward Durant, OK where I was supposed to have lunch with an old high school band mate, Rita Rains.  On the way, I stopped at an Amish shoppe which featured homemade Amish jams, jellies, and (of course) fudge!  I picked some up for Rita and a little for myself.

What a lovely time Rita and I had catching up on things.  We share a deep love of dogs and, I think, a love of life and people.  It’s been a hard life, but good and the lunch was so much fun.  Rita is friends with many of my old friends from high school like Lyle Tompkins, Glenda Pittman, and others.  You know, I never really ran with any crowds (other than the band crowds) in high school, but I always enjoy seeing the people from back then and learning how their lives have turned out.  Rita works for her brother (a doctor) in the area.  I missed meeting her babies because one of them is a bit picky about meeting new people and we didn’t have time to acclimate me with her.  But, maybe next time. J

I headed out and planned to stop by the Peanut Shoppe before crossing the Texas border.  I loved the shop last time I’d stopped by on my trip, and this time I did as well.  Peanuts, pecans, and other nuts prepared about any way you’d like them (and I always like them in the most fattening ways!).  I picked up a bag of toffee peanuts and had to throw out the last of it before I ate myself into a peanut-induced stupor!

The rest of the trip was uneventful with one stop on the way to change into cooler clothes (it was heating up FAST!).  Picked up the pups from Geri and Jim’s kennels, and headed home.

All-in-all, for a quick trip – you can’t beat the Ozarks in the Fall.  There’s a lot more to do than I did, and I’d hoped to do more hiking (it rained much of the time I was there).  But, then, there’s ALWAYS next time. J

Creating a Travel Hub

Travel Hubs… what are they and why would you want one?

It occurred to me as I looked over brochures for group tours to London and Paris, Bulgaria and Switzerland… that it was a LOT of work for relatively few touring options.  Pull up stakes every night.  Bus trips of long duration.  Not being able to separate from a tour if it *wasn’t* what I wanted to do… etc.

I’m normally an independent traveler, and even as such, I hadn’t really scoped out the power of “hubbing.”  Typically, I would land in London, then take a train or car to each of the following travel destinations on my itinerary… changing lodging each time.  Again, a lot of time and energy wasted on useless things like packing, switching hotels, and driving to each B&B along the way.

I started thinking of all the day tours available from London to Stonehenge, Bath, the Cotswolds, etc.  And I wondered… couldn’t you apply the “hub” concept to a custom-tailored vacation just for you?  I mean… who said I had to be stuck with city to city vacations?  Really?

So, I’m about to step out on a limb here and apply this concept to a vacation you might want to take.  Perhaps structuring one will make more sense.

Choose the Trip Highlights First

First, without considering a location or a specific date, are there some things you might like to do?

Determine Things You Want to Do

• Hike
• See some sheepdog trials
•  Go to some country fairs
• Shop – especially in market towns
• Check out a few cathedrals, castles, or other historical sites
• Eat really good food
• Visit friends

Settle on Travel Dates

Ask yourself:

1. Which of these travel highlights are tied to certain dates?

•  Sheepdog trials – May 18 – Otley Show.
• Country fairs - http://www.dalesfestivaloffood.org/- May 4-6  (Leyburn)

     2.  Is that a good month weather-wise to go see and do these things?

• Yes… see Climate of the UK.

     3.  Do the dates fit into a travel schedule that is doable?

• It would be a stretch:  May 2 – May 19

Determine Cities/Towns You Want to Visit

• Keswick
• Otley
• Leyburn
• Ripon
• Kilburn
• Sleaford
• London
• Leicester
• Norwich

Pinpoint Your Hub(s)

Map out the Highlight Locations

Use Google Maps (or another map program) to map out your destinations.

Now, typically, you would look at this map and find the center of the dots to see where your hub should be.  In this map, you see the potential for a North and South hub.

Deciding Factors

Is there an area or particular location you want to consider?

Perhaps you want to spend a good amount of time in the Lake District.

The north hub could be Keswick  (location C).  From Keswick, Leyburn (B) , Otley (A), Kilburn (D), and Ripon (E) are reachable in a day.

Are there other factors?  Opportunities? 

For the southern hub, you have a friend who lives in Leicester (G) … so you could go to London (F), Sleaford (I), and Norwich (H) as day trips from there and enjoy an extended visit with your friend.

Logistics

•  Do your research – because back roads can cause a lot of issues when you’re traveling in the UK.  A one-hour trip can easily become three hours.  If the towns you are visiting are easily reachable by train or bus… consider those.

Trains are usually faster than cars, but won’t get you in and out as easily.

• Pick your hub B&B or lodging.  There are numerous resources for this including the local visitor’s centre.

Summary

To summarize, a travel hub does not have to be a large city.  You can create your own travel hub and make your vacation work for YOU and not the other the other way around.

The advantages of staying in one place are:

• Saving time and money. Many B&B's offer a discount for an extended stay. Less time packing and unpacking - more time for sightseeing!
• Flexible.  If you decide you don’t want to do a day trip one day… you don’t have to.  You haven’t already planned and tied yourself to a B&B for the next day. 
• You can scope out your hub town in a lot more detail.
• You can leverage opportunities to visit friends - using their town as a hub and possibly saving money by staying with them.  

May 2013 - the new "Go" Date

Dear Readers,

As I mentioned in the last post, I’ve just gone through a season of loss this summer.  Probably the worst summer in my life.   

I would occasionally think maybe I should begin planning another trip.  You know, take my mind off things.  After grieving the loss of my friends and father and the loss of my last trip, though, I wasn't sure I could bring myself to purchase another UK ticket again.

But, then all these photographer friends of mine keep posting their gorgeous pictures. Almost ALL my co-workers have traveled to the UK this year (the latest even went to Keswick). I started daydreaming.

Trafalgar offered me 25% off the trip I missed out on last summer.

I am not sure if I was convinced I should go or not… it was very mechanical, pushing that “Go” button.  I hope I did the right thing. 

The trip is planned for May.  I will be sure to let you know how things go.  I plan on a week in the Lake District, a day and a half in London, and the rest on the Trafalgar tour.

In the meantime, I’m signed up to teach another England class at UT Informal classes.  I’m doing a one-day class this time on Saturday October 27^th.  I thought I’d see how it would be to consolidate everything into one longer course.  I like the timeframe better.

I’m actually booked to travel quite a bit this year.  I don’t really know how that happened.  By accident, most likely.

I’ll be traveling to see friends in Eureka Springs, Arkansas in October for my birthday.  The day after I get back, mom is coming to stay with me for a week and a half. The dogs and I will be happy to see her!

In November, comes a trip to Maryland to see Sweet Sue (my friend from Jr. High).  I’ll be there for a week of sightseeing and catching up.

In April, I travel with my friend, Brenda, to bury her husband’s ashes at Arlington National Cemetery.  We plan to drive up and see some sights along the way.

And then, two weeks later – I’m in the UK!

I’m so hesitant this year.  I hope I can overcome it.  A week in the Lake District should be enough to cure anyone!

My friend who went to Keswick for the first time this year said it was her favorite part of the trip for her.  I had given a couple of UK classes at work, and she had learned about the Lake District there.  I’m so glad she enjoyed herself.

What will I do with myself for a week there? 

I’ve been considering a long day trip to Yorkshire.  Stops would include the Teesdale Gallery to see one of my photographer friends.  From there, I plan a stop at Fountains Abbey and on to Ripon.

I would like to do a short hike to the last place I remember well from having lived there.

This hiking map: Ripon Ramble at #4 shows where I will be.  It will be a sad/happy time for me.  I will remember being a young newlywed and all the traumas and happiness of uprooting myself for the unknown and coming to know what it is like to be in a long-term partnership with someone.  I was unsure what that even meant in the beginning!

On from Ripon, I will go back to Thirsk.  I have a penchant for retracing my steps to places I love.  I want to go back to the World of James Herriot again now that I’ve seen most of the “All Creatures Great and Small” series.

And, following that, to Kilburn.  Once again, I’ll climb the White Horse cliff and visit the Robert Thompson/Mouseman woodcarver.  However, I want to do something different, so I’ll also visit the nearby North Yorkshire Dales National Park/Sutton Bank Visitor's Centre.  A short walk (depending on time) would be in order.

That should complete one ambitious day! 

If other thoughts of days out come to me, I’ll post them here.  Travel is healing, I think.  As one friend of mine put it: “No one ever said on their deathbed, ‘I wish I hadn’t traveled so much!’”

Leaving you with a clip from All Creatures Great and Small.

And There it Is

I haven't blogged in awhile, dear readers.  I had hoped that by now you would have been regaled with stories of England - new friends I'd met along the way and old friends I'd gotten the chance to see again.

But such was not the case.

I was supposed to leave for the UK on June 13.  On June 12, my father called to tell me he was going into the hospital to try some new medications they wanted to put him on.  He didn't sound good... so I left immediately for Houston.

Dad seemed ok as I checked in on him.  So, my plans were still in place.

The next morning was scary.  Dad looked worse than I'd ever seen him.  I was fearful of leaving, but dad and the rest of the family said I should leave, and the doctors and nurses weren't giving me any clues as to how urgent the need for me to stay was.

Well, I boarded the plane with misgivings, and cried most of the way to London.  I knew as we were passing over NYC that I was going to have to return immediately.  It's a good thing, too, because waiting for me in the UK were messages from my family urging me to return.

I spent exactly one hour in the duty free hall collecting souvenirs, but never left the airport until my flight home was called.

Dad was released home to hospice care.  He looked really bad, and my heart sank as I watched him try to breathe and to just do what he had to to survive.  But, miracle of miracles... he got better daily!  I'm convinced that hospitals kill people.

I was able to come home to Austin feeling that dad was at least stable.

On July 11, I got a call at 5 am from my brother that dad wasn't breathing well.  30 minutes later I got the other call that dad had passed away.

The arrangements and funeral and such were all a blur.

Two weeks later on July 27th, one of my best friends passed away from cancer.  Again, I was involved in the post-passing frenzy of plans, parties (she didn't want a memorial), and mourning.

In addition, my friend Brenda's husband, Mitch, passed away in June and two other best friends have moved/are moving very far away from Austin.

I've been trying to work up the passion for another trip - just to keep from going totally under, but thoughts of England are so tied with my dad's illness that it may take awhile.  I've considered going other places, but nothing has spoken to me yet.

Anyway, didn't want you thinking I'd forgotten about you.  It's just been a really tough summer.