I love traveling by train. It’s a great way to enjoy the company of new people (some even interesting), see the countryside, and have someone else do the driving.
People in the states should really catch on to the idea of mass rail transit. It’s the way to go!
At any rate, I got into Edinburgh early, and my baggage and I went looking for the exit to the rail station.
Here’s what we found:
Waverly Station - Edinburgh
I was daunted, but determined to get out of there, so I hauled my bags up each and every step.
Then, it was across the main street (Princes) and down about half a mile to the B&B. I’d been warned that the B&B was up several flights of stairs, but just let me say…SEVENTY steps? OMG, I was horrified… but determined…
So, up I went. Only to find out that my room wasn’t yet ready! Oh well, time to sightsee a bit. That meant storing my bags at the B&B, going back down (SEVENTY) steps, and back the way I came. WHEW.
Princes Street hosts about a bazillion shops, so I had no problem locating many gifts for my friends back home. The bad part of all of this is that Edinburgh is undergoing some kind of mass transit renovation, and they’re laying tram tracks right down the center of Princes Street. Views were blocked in almost every direction. However, I was only shopping, so no biggie.
Went back to the B&B and up (SEVENTY) steps to my room.
The room was smallish (most UK “singles” are a twin bed in a small space). I had none of the wonderful views that the brochure had shown (wah!). But it was clean and comfortable – and the manager (Honor) and her husband were very gracious.
I was laying there napping and guilting myself because this was the only day I was going to have to tour Edinburgh. Tomorrow was my all-day tour of the Highlands and Distilleries! So, I got up, and hauled myself back down (SEVENTY) steps to Princes Street. From there, you have to cross over to another part of town passing by museum alley (or whatever it was). Then UP about 50 steps. This was the sight I saw:
Edinburgh Castle
Wow. It was so imposing and beautiful. But, to get there – I had to find the Royal Mile, which turned out to be… you guessed it…
Up Hill!
I will say this – I gained some muscle those two days in Edinburgh!
The Royal Mile is a lovely area of shops (both touristy and not), old buildings, churches, and history. For the timetable I was on, the history was going to have to slide a little. I walked (uphill) toward the castle. They had just had the Tattoo, so there was scaffolding everywhere being taken down. Not the most scenic time to visit the town!
But, I got my ticket and was then faced with… tadaaa….
MORE STEPS
Castle Steps
At least I didn’t have any baggage with me. Up the steps I went – and into the castle courtyards. Oh my how beautiful they were!
You could see for miles.
Castle Yards
I toured around a bit taking pictures and buying souvenirs before heading back to the Royal Mile and down to Holyrood Palace. Along the way, I found Royal Mile Whiskeys and was able to get three bottles of highly-recommended scotch shipped to my house. I alsolocated the tour company’s store front for my tour the following day, and made note. By the time I got to the end of the Royal Mile (which really is a mile), I was pretty tired. It was also late, so I didn’t go into Holyrood (I’d seen it before), and I caught a bus over to Princes Street (I couldn’t face all those steps again!). TGIFridays was right next to my B&B, so that’s where I had dinner. In fact, many of my meals, unfortunately, were handled by American restaurants.
Then, it was up (SEVENTY) steps to my room. Which was upstairs, by the way.
9/15
The breakfast served at the B&B was wonderful and I met an American couple there who were visiting from North Carolina. Marilyn and Jim. They were really sweet, and were finishing up a trip that had taken them to various parts of the UK. I believe Edinburgh was their last stop before going home. We discussed life and the existence of so many steps in one city, then it was time for me to go to my tour. I had 45 minutes… so as I crossed Princes Street and went up the wall of steps there, I decided to get a coke. Afterwards, looked at my watch, and I only had 15 minutes to get there! I fairly ran down the Royal Mile – huffing and puffing – and finally got to the tour company. In front of it was parked a bus with a lady driver… so I asked if this was the Rabbies tour. She said, “no, I think they meet at ___” and gave me an address several blocks UP the Royal Mile. I started off in a run, but by that time, running uphill was just beyond me and I was going to miss the tour. So, I caught a taxi for the few blocks to the area she had indicated. Got out and…
No tours!
I was desperate by then, so I phoned the tour company. Turns out, the tour had been back downhill where I was originally. Luckily, the tour left late that morning. We were off by around 10:30.
I don’t recall our tour guide’s name, but he was genial enough.
Our first stop was at the Forth Bridge – breathtaking views of the waterways that go through Edinburgh.
Forth Bridge
From there, we went to the small town of Dunkeld. I found out later that when the Norse marauders had demolished Catholic strongholds in outlying Scottish islands, the center of Catholicism had moved to Dunkeld. But we really had no historical briefing before landing in the town. I just enjoyed the small shops, and getting a hot tea!
Then, we were off again. This time to the Hermitage. It was a beautiful day, and the Hermitage is a lovely forest walk to a series of waterfalls that just took your breath away.
Falls at the Hermitage
I ran into a Canadian couple on the trip who were quite nice, but we were operating at different paces (she had severe fibromyalgia), so we just hung out as we could and did our own thing for the rest.
Our next stop was Pitlochry which was very near the highly-recommended whiskey distillery of Blair Athol. I didn’t get a chance to tour Blair Athol, but I did enjoy Pitlochry for its quaint shops. I got a small sandwich at a butcher’s shop before continuing back to the bus.
The weather had held up well the entire trip thus far, so I was excited to see the last half of our journey. Next on the stop was Queen’s View:
Queen’s View
The vistas were amazing and the air so clean and clear… I fell in love with Scotland in spite of all the steps.
Then, we were off again! This time to Aberfeldy and the Dewars Distillery tour. I’m not a huge Dewars fan, and the actual distillery was not in operation at the time. So, we were only able to do the museum tour – which was mildly interesting. I did find out what a Qaich was! I had seen these small bowls everywhere.
Qaich
This is pronounced “cake”, by the way. It’s used in welcoming and parting to share a wee dram of alcohol with your friends. Sort of like breaking bread. Of course, I got one.
I taste tested some of the Dewars, but stuck to my general opinion that it wasn’t my favorite. And, onward went the bus!
Our last stop of the day was in Killin. I could have stayed there a night or two, the town was just lovely with a river running through the middle of it!
There was an ill-fated clan called McNabb, many of whom emigrated to North America. (See http://www.perthshire-scotland.co.uk/clans-macnab.htm).
McNab Burial Grounds
Sadly, we had to leave Killin and make our way back to Edinburgh. The driver dropped me off at Princes Street – so half the uphill journey was avoided.
I stopped for a quick bite at a McDonalds (in Scotland – whee!), and made my way back up (SEVENTY) steps to my B&B.
I loved my trip to Edinburgh and the highlands. I’m hoping to go back someday (and build up more muscle mass). LOL
The next morning, it was up bright and early to catch my train to Penrith and the English Lake District!
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