Off the Beaten Path: Tintagel

County: Cornwall

Though my heart is definitely in the north of England, I did manage to carve out a few favorites from southern counties as well. Probably my MOST favorite town in the south is Tintagel. I landed there one year at the behest of a travel partner who wanted to know more about King Arthur. To that end, Tintagel is a must see.

If you’re staying in Tintagel, I highly recommend the Avalon B&B. It’s right beside the sea within easy walking distance of the remains of King Arthur’s Castle and Merlin’s cave. Ask for an ocean view – I promise you’ll wish you had if you don’t! Peter and Julie are great hosts, and you must do yourself a favor by trying the porridge brulee.

Heading southward from the B&B, you’ll be met with numerous shops and eateries. Get a real Cornish pasty or perhaps a pub lunch at the King Arthur’s Arms! The distance to the castle ticket booth is about half a mile or so. You’ll have to be at least minimally fit to climb the steps up to the top of the hill that contains the castle remains. To be honest, I was more enamored of the views than the castle leftovers. You can see for miles out into the blue. Island rocks jut out reminiscent of the old Yes album covers.

Just below you, underneath the hill is a tidal cave known as Merlin’s cave. You can peruse it at low tide, but otherwise, it remains underwater. Just being on the beach at the base of the hill is an enormous energy high. You can almost feel the history lifting you up and permeating the air. On the way back to the town, you can stop by the castle gift shop and there’s a small café nearby also. For those not up for a walk, there’s typically a manned golf cart that will haul you for a fee.

Back into Tintagel, you can spend your day shopping, catching up on your laundry, or checking out the visitor’s centre (it’s a nice one)! There is a King Arthur’s Great Halls which is a hall, gift shop, and movie theater. I’ve only been in the gift shop, but I hear the movie and hall tour is well worth the price! Of course, if you’ve read my other blog posts, you’ll know that one of my favorite nearby spots is St. Nectan’s Glen. It’s close enough that you can walk there if you’re fairly fit. If not, you can drive to a little car park nearby and walk about a mile through the most awesome fairy forest I’ve ever seen. At the end of the trail is a Wiccan café where you can get a bite before purchasing a ticket to the kieve (waterfall).

I’ve been to Stonehenge and to Avebury. They have their positive points and the energy (at least in Avebury) is still pretty amazing. Nothing compares to St. Nectan’s Glen, though. Not Glastonbury Tor or the Chalice Well or even the holy Hawthorn tree on Wearyall Hill. Just saying that you really shouldn’t miss it. Plan to stay long enough to do some meditation and prayer. It’s a good place for it.

In 2014, we had some spare time, so we decided to see the Witch Museum in Boscastle (just the other side of St. Nectan’s Glen). Honestly? One of the most gorgeous little towns in Cornwall that I’ve seen. The museum was extensive, but the visitor’s center was HUGE. Besides having cute little shops and cafes. I’d say Boscastle could be a holiday destination as well as Tintagel.

Very close to Tintagel (if you are traveling by car) is Port Isaac. If you’re a Doc Martin fan, you’ll know that Port Isaac is the real life “Portwenn” in the tv series. I found it fascinating, beautiful, and a little tough to get around in. The town is perched on the side of a hill, so to get anywhere, you’re either traveling uphill or downhill. Most of the time the grade is very steep! But, I got to see Doc Martin’s house and even went in Mrs. Tishel’s chemist shop. :)

Tintagel is not easy to reach without a car. Your best bet (without a car of your own) is to get the train to Bodmin Parkway Rail Station and either take the bus or get a taxi from there. Here is some helpful information.

I wish you all the best in your travel adventures to Cornwall. There is SO much to see and do! Get there during the week to miss the weekend tourists. Take a shopping bag, a walking stick, and an adventurous spirit. Cornwall will fill you up with its mystery, amazing landscapes, and historical sites!